I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. Try it! So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Holley Sniper EFI Troubleshooting Mudford Garage 8.6K subscribers 38K views 3 years ago My Bronco with Holley Sniper EFI was running poorly. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. Do you have any clue? Ok, so I'm stumped! Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. When I shut it off then start it No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Then your low idle problem will go away. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. I will let you know what the results are. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. I think you'll be all set! Okay, try my method. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. I had this same exact issue. It does this with the engine off. Good luck! If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. Try it! Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. Part# 538-13. I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Hey Chris Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. any ideas? When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. That is not something I'd ignore. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? Thank you so much for your follow-up. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. The RPM would increase for no reason. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. :-). Give us a hand! Thanks for your very detailed question! The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. Hello. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. mean that the IAC is causing it. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Reply Quote. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. I appreciate everything you are saying. What an amazing site you have here. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. What can I do? Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. It will need to see it again and again. Thank you for your input. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! Thanks for all your help Chris! Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. I keep doing that with the same result. Data logs show no EMI/RFI. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. Holley have given a new unit. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. Capability Range: Advanced This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. If more info is needed just ask. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. me know how it works for you. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. No problems with either cold or hot starts. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Turned it off and on again. idles good, runs amazing. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). I think that your timing is too retarded. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup I'll have to check again tomorrow. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? The distributor was loose. Also if I give it a It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) I keep doing that with the same result. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. check out the. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. I did change the -40 thing also. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. Any ideas here? Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. lower until I turn down the set screw. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC My Sniper is 99% great! If I go any more it will ping. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. First thing I would check I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. I did notice that when I thought I had it set Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%.

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